The Adventures of Daniel and Cindy

Tribute to little Vauville

2008-11-06T06:27:00.000-08:00

The longer that we live in this area of Normandy, the more we enjoy and appreciate it. The sunsets over the water, our hikes, the changing weather, the farm life and verdant fields, the history, the nature, the quiet and tranquility. Sometimes we like to get out and just see what the sky is doing. The winds and currents are strong here, so the face of the sky is constantly changing, with every color, shape of clouds, and angle of sunlight imaginable. Add to that the canvas of the Channel and we are constantly entertained by the shafts of sunlight that beam through the clouds to touch the water with a song...

Gardening in the backyard.. We try to keep our window boxes blooming...

The more neighbors we meet, the more we appreciate this little village... We have found the people who live here to be friendly, helpful, and active in their community. They seem to really care about and take care of each other. We have enjoyed aperitifs, coffees, and dinners with neighbors. We have been given vegetables fresh from the garden, tools to borrow when we need them (such as a drill, shovel, and lawnmower), flowers and plants, and helpful advice. Our neighbors have taught us about the history of the area, gardening, French culture and language, and about taking time for things that matter. I have never lived in a small town (or small French village). Now I know what it is like to not be able to walk down the street without stopping to chat with someone. It is a nice change and learning experience for both us.

Rocamadour

2007-09-30T08:33:00.000-07:00

During our week in Collonges-la-Rouge, we took an afternoon trip to Rocamadour. It is a beautiful and historic medieval village built right into a high rock cliff. There are village houses and a pedestrian street on the lower level (Citè Pietonne), churches halfway up (Citè Religieuse), and then the grand castle at the top. We visited the church of Notre-Dame, where the strange but famous Black Madonna statue is enshrined. The fortified gateways on the lower level were especially cool.

Rocamadour is well-known as a site of pilgrimage, en-route to the more famous site of Santiago de Compostela in Spain. We walked the long path (called the Grand Escalier: 216 steps) that leads from the bottom and winds up to the top. (There is an elevator, but not for free!) Apparently pilgrims used to do this on their knees. At the switchbacks you find “stations of the cross” at which they would stop and do their recitations. It was very interesting. It was a long and steep path, made a little easier today because it is well worn, no doubt by countless New Balances and Nikes. The view from the top was beautiful. We saw a hot air balloon and some eagles.

While this is a neat place to go for a little while, I wouldn’t recommend it for a long destination. There were hordes of people everywhere, and it wasn’t even high season. Granted, there was a hot air balloon festival going on, but apparently it stays crowded a lot. The tourists now far outnumber the pilgrims, and all the houses have been turned into trinket souvenir shops, but with some imagination you can see how it must have been back in the Middle Ages.

Collonges-la-Rouge

2007-09-26T00:48:00.000-07:00

We left La Roque-Gageac the next morning, went by Sarlat, and then on to Collonges-la-Rouge, another medieval village on the official “most beautiful” list. (Funny note I learned when reading about it, is that the mayor of Collonges-la-Rouge wrote the book "The Most Beautiful Villages in France " from which the association and list started). Most of the buildings have been constructed using the local red sandstone. The architecture of this eighth century red rock village is fun, too. Over the week we enjoyed walking in this village with friends, sight-seeing and a little shopping. To the left you see the eleventh century St. Pierre church.

We spent a little over a week here for the Feast of Tabernacles, an annual observance detailed in the Old and New Testaments of the Bible. Collonges-la-Rouge was one of over 50 United Church of God sites all over the world, going on at the same time. We spent this time with about 30 French members and over 70 members of the church from all over the world, including England, Australia, Martinique, Belgium, Switzerland, and the United States. It was nice to be able to worship freely and fellowship, in a country that in general does not respect religion. The French members are spread out all over this country, so they really appreciate the few times a year they can come together. We had services each morning, delicious meals together, and activities in the afternoons. Daniel and I enjoyed helping to build bridges between English and French speakers as well as spending time with old friends and making new ones. It was an inspiring and wonderful week!

Dordogne River Valley

2007-09-25T23:15:00.000-07:00

We left St. Emilion for the Dordogne River Valley, enjoying the beautiful countryside and vineyards. It took longer than usual (partially due to an autoroute exit I missed) so we decided to call ahead to reserve a place for a canoe ride. The last trip out was to be at 3:00 pm. At around 2:50 we called and said we’d be there just after 3:00. We ended up stopping in a parking lot outside of La Roque-Gageac and running to the road to meet the van, on the way to the drop off point. We didn’t take time to change clothes or pack anything; we just ran. There was one other American couple in the van. We jumped in, and after a few minutes they turned around and said “Parlez-vous anglais?” (We had spoken to the bus driver in French and then were just quiet, catching our breath). They were a nice retired couple, in Europe for the first time.

The ride started innocently enough, with the usual donning of lifejackets and unloading the canoes. The water was calm and we only saw trees and countryside for a while, along the banks. About 20 minutes down river, it began to sprinkle. Then it started to pour. And the wind blew. And the goose bumps rose. Eventually we reached the area where we saw the beautiful chateaux and villages along the banks of the river. By that time, our teeth were chattering and we just wanted to get out and get warm and dry. We were totally unprepared, since we had just jumped out of the car and into the van! Despite the weather, it was still absolutely beautiful and we have somewhat fond memories of canoeing the Dordogne.

We docked our canoes at La Roque-Gageac, about two hours down from where we started and the American couple drove us back to the car. We went straight to our hotel to dry off and thaw out, and when we went back outside we got to appreciate why this village is officially classified one of the most beautiful villages in France (“Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”). It is a little medieval village situated on the Dordogne river, built right out of the cliffs. We watched as the sunset changed the pallet of the cottages, cliffs, and reflections in the water. Then we went inside for a delicious gourmet meal at the well-reputed restaurant in our little place, the Hotel Belle Etoile.

Saint Emilion III

2007-09-25T00:01:00.000-07:00

Saint Emilion is one of four main wine regions of Bordeaux. What makes it so special is the special microclimate and unique soil conditions that are just right for making this wine. Small chateaux and vineyards surround the town and vines grow everywhere.

The first place that we visited and toured was Chateau Fonplegade, a beautiful chateau on a hill just outside of town. After the informative guided tour we learned a great deal about wine tasting, in the “salon de degustation.” There is the visual examination, first nose, then the swirling (to reveal the bouquet), then the second nose, then the sipping/slurping, the sitting in the mouth (until it gets to body temperature and saturates your tastebuds), then the aspiration (sucking in air while keeping the wine in your mouth), the swirling, and finally the spitting. All of this is carefully choreographed to get all the smells into your nose and mouth to experience the utmost taste… the result of a many-years process of planting, harvesting, fermentation, pressing, aging in oak barrels, bottling, etc…. It was interesting to learn about all the time and care that goes into one simple bottle of wine.

Later we dropped in on another wine producer, who was in the midst of working but took some time with us to tell us about his wine, the region’s best years, what makes the soil special, and the whole process… He was very friendly, and very passionate about his work. This was all in the time of vendange, peak-harvest! We saw tractors pulling trailers loaded down with grapes going down the road… It was neat to think of where the final product would end up… all over the world!

We visited Chateau Bel-Air on another day. That was probably the most interesting guided tour (though all had their own unique flavor). We got to see and explore the underground caves and catacombs. That’s another thing that makes this region special.. All around Saint Emilion, kilometers of underground caverns and catacombs naturally hold a perfect temperature for storing wine!

Saint Emilion II

2007-09-24T00:02:00.000-07:00

One of the most interesting things to see in Saint Emilion is the underground monolithic church. It was hewn out of solid limestone. Windows are carved out of one side to allow sunshine in. At the entrance you can walk through some catacombs where monks were buried… Their bodies didn’t decompose because of the environment of the caves, so people thought this was a miracle and they became saints.

It is a little bit of an eerie experience to be in a cave-church. There were some engravings (involving astrology and philosophy) and altars that made you wonder how much of it was Christian and how much was influenced by other beliefs. We ended up getting two tours of this place. Our first one was interrupted by a woman in another group fainting, so we lost our tour guide and ended up with a guide from a traveling group, who told us the church was a place where traveling knights of the Crusades came to give penance for their terrible deeds, and the entire layout of the church was designed to be disturbing. He pointed out different things like Templar crosses and an engraving that was supposed to symbolize the holy grail. Our second tour sponsored by the tourism office was altogether and entirely different. It was interesting.

We also enjoyed the restaurants and walking around at night. While the town is bustling in the daytime with tourists (many American and English), it is quiet at night because most visitors don’t stay overnight. The buildings are lit, the plazas empty, and the views are still beautiful.

Saint-Emilion, Part I

2007-09-23T05:44:00.000-07:00

In December of 2006, Daniel and I visited Saint Emilion for the first time. It was cold, rainy, frosty, and looked deserted, but we could still tell how special of a place it was. We determined we would go back. We got our chance to return at the end of September, at peak season for grape harvesting, and we were not disappointed.

Saint Emilion (another UNESCO World Heritage site) is a small medieval town outside of Bordeaux, set on a hill overlooking the Dordogne valley. The town is surrounded by vineyards and chateaux which are world famous for their wine. We enjoyed the history of the town as well as touring some of the chateau in the area. We loved the architecture, the steep, narrow cobblestone streets and Romanesque churches... All the buildings are the same color, made from the local area's ochre limestone, complete with Roman-arched tile roofs. It is a very peaceful place.

For us, the history of the area was just as interesting as the wine. Apparently the Romans were the first to plant vines there in the second century, but a travelling monk named Emilion is the one for whom the town is named. We toured the little underground cave that was this hermit's home and listened to the story and legends attributed to him. Other monks followed him and started up the commercial wine production in the area. We were not allowed to take pictures on that tour, since the cave and church that was built over it are private property. (We met the owner by chance when we visited his chateau!)

"On Rue Tatin", Paris

2007-09-06T07:43:00.000-07:00

On Thursday September 6th, I took the train to Paris (on my own for the first time) for a cooking class. I was invited by a friend and fellow American-living-in-France, Tricia Boyer. Tricia is married to a lovely French man, Eric (pronounced, "Ereek") and they live in Louviers, not far from Rouen. Tricia works for Susan Herrmann Loomis, food expert and cookbook author who runs a French cooking school in Louviers. It turns out that in addition to week-long classes in Louviers, Susan also gives one-day classes in Paris. I was very thankful for the opportunity to learn about French cooking in an English-speaking class.

After a pleasant train ride, I had about three hours to spare before class began. I enjoyed a leisurely walk around Paris, a quiet visit to Notre Dame, and eventually a mad sprint down rue Jacob (it's a long story involving a talkative French sidewalk merchant). Finally I came to the the famous and beautiful yet functional Patricia Wells cooking studio, an efficacious place to create.

Susan started with a tasting and demonstration of different nut oils for our small group of students. In the course of the evening we also enjoyed a chocolate tasting (need I say more?) and a salt-tasting, learning the difference between Sel de Mer, Fleur de Sel, and... table salt. Throughout the evening, we tasted and mmmed and awwed our way through the preparation of a multi-course meal, and then enjoyed the fruits of our labors, from aperitif to dessert. Our ingredients were chosen from the market that morning, and we discussed the benefits of eating fresh, seasonal, local produce and products. In twos we sliced, diced, scored, blanched, steamed, minced, pinched, simmered, whisked, and otherwise prepared different courses of the meal. We followed the recipes and listened to Susan's different techniques, such as how to easily remove the skin of a peach, or the best possible way to cook a duck breast. I learned alot, hands-on, enjoyed the comfortable sound of English all evening, and relished the delicous meal that we had worked together to make. And I am happy to say that I have successfully made both the green bean entree and the duck (magret de canard) at home, with rave reviews from Daniel! I also came home with ideas on how to make our little kitchen more efficient. It was a wonderful experience--many thanks to Tricia and Susan!!

Green Beans with Peaches and Almonds
Duck Breast with Almonds, Garlic, Cumin
Cheeses
Salad With Honey Vinaigrette
Seasonal Fruit Tart

http://www.onruetatin.com/

Paris III Musée du Louvre

2007-08-20T09:54:00.000-07:00

On Monday we visited the Louvre, the oldest, biggest, most famous, most visited, most everything museum in the whole wide world. Our favorite exhibits were those of the more ancient civilizations, and everything Egyptian (the encyclopedia of Egyptian gods was really neat), Hammurabi's code (the first written code of laws in human history), the Grand Gallery of huge paintings, the sculpture garden.. too many to list. It is easy to be distracted by the walls and ceilings of the former Royal Palace as you walk through the exhibits, and the Medieval Louvre underneath it all...

My least favorite was the Mona Lisa. It was a madhouse, literally, and I'm just glad we got out alive.

It's pretty cool to finally see the artifacts of everything you've ever read or hear about in history. The picture of the ancient pottery decorated with what we now call swastikas is for Shari, who has said that the (now corrupted) symbol has been around for a long time! Pretty amazing stuff...

Below, the painting with the longest title, David's "Sacre of the Emperor Napoleon I and the crowning of the Empress Joséphine in the cathedral of Notre-Dame of Paris" and Delacroix's "Liberty Leading the People," First picture (above): my own artistic rendering of "Nike" or "Winged Victory."

Paris II Eiffel Tower

2007-08-19T15:56:00.000-07:00

Sunday night, we relaxed with a small picnic on the Champs-de-Mars, the green space at the base of the Eiffel Tower. (The translation is Field of Mars, so named because was used for military training). I've seen the Tour d'Eiffel lots of times from a distance, but it is pretty awesome to see it up close...not because it's an icon of everything French, but because it's just so big!

In October we saw a huge rugby balloon hanging in the middle of it. I've since learned about some more banners that hung from the tower in the past: During World War II, the Germans hung a sign on it that read: "Deutschland Siegt Auf Allen Fronten" ("Germany is victorious on all fronts"). In 1958, as Fidel Castro was rising to power, Cuban revolutionaries hung their red-and-black flag from the first level, and, in 1979, an American from Greenpeace hung one that read: "Save the Seals". What a billboard!

Paris I

2007-08-19T08:51:00.000-07:00

We decided to celebrate our fourth anniversary in Paris this year. Up until this point, we had visited Paris often, but without really taking the time to really relax, see it, and enjoy it. We've gone to church services there, we've picked up friends and family from the airport, we've had work-related appointments and a cooking class... Not a lot of sight-seeing. So we decided to spend a long weekend there and enjoy some museums and see some sights.

We really enjoyed walking at night. The monuments, churches, buildings, fountains, statues, etc. are beautifully lit at night. On our first night there we explored the Tuileries and the Louvre gardens and then walked along the Seine to the Notre Dame cathedral. The next day we took most of the day to see the Musee d'Orsay, an extraordinary museum in the center of Paris of collections of art (painting, sculptures, decorative and graphic arts, photography, and architecture) from 1848 to 1914. The museum was installed in the former Orsay railway station, itself a work of art! We saw very famous painting after painting.. the kind you see in your literature and art books in school, on greeting cards, prints all over the world. You have to hold your chin up as you walk from room to room. A very interesting place!

Around Vauville

2007-08-05T06:24:00.000-07:00

We don't spend ALL of our free time travelling. We do enjoy our home when we are here, especially the sunsets over the water. We like to go biking along the miles of nearby trails. We have had some adventures in the scrub and steep sand dunes with our bikes. We also like to take long hikes along the trails that line the water.

One Sunday we enjoyed the annual Vauville derby that took place just up the road. At lunch we had to laugh at the differences between American and French concession stands at such sporting events. Instead of what we are used to (BBQ, hamburgers, hotdogs, soda, brownies, etc), they roasted salted lamb, had a variety of gourmet salads (some with shrimp), specialty cheeses, tarts, and wine! This was after the aperitif that was between the event and lunch time. But, in either country, at any event, you will find French fries!

One of the perks to living here is the fun stream of traffic going by our house on the street. The kitchen window is like an entertainment center, where in the summer I see a constant stream hikers, tourists with cameras, huge tour buses, horses and riders, carriages, ponies, boats, and tractors. And one evening,while the Harpers were here visiting, a herd of sheep went by. Sandra dropped everything and ran out the door--we didn't know what was going on until we followed her and saw them!

We also find a little time to go to the beach. We mostly walk there around sunset, but on occasion we could be found relaxing with our lounge chairs at the edge of the water.

Chateau des Ravalets

2007-07-22T09:14:00.000-07:00

Living in a little corner of Normandy, we find ourselves constantly discovering new things about this area and its rich history. I had long heard about a castle in Tourlaville (basically a suburb of Cherbourg) so we took the Harpers there to visit on a lazy Sunday afternoon. We ran around the grounds, enjoying the beautiful gardens and scenery, and we determined to come back the next day for a free visit of the castle.
The next day we participated in the two hour guided tour, and since it was in French, we were thankful to have the help of Jocelyn Manceau, a friend and assistant hired by Areva to help us with our transition to this country. She translated for us the long and surprising story of the Chateau des Ravalets. To make a long story short, the Lord of Tourlaville, Jean II de Ravalet built this Renaissance castle in the sixteenth century on the site of a medieval manor. Jean II presented it to his nephew, Jean III, whose children, Julien and Marguerite, are the subject of its most famous story. Julien and Marguerite were accused of "loathsome deeds" and were decapitated in Paris in 1603 by order of the the king Henri IV, who was heavily influenced to do so by the queen, Marie de Medicis. Their story can be found at:
http://www.ville-cherbourg.fr/uk/tourism_discovery/history/marguerite_and_julien_de/marguerite_and_julien_de/default.asp

Since it was built, the castle has changed hands, been damaged, survived through the Revolution, and been restored many times. Along its long history it was used as a farm, later a hospital, and eventually occupied successively by French, German, and American troops. Above you see the "blue bathroom" on the left and a painting of Marguerite on the right. The massive garden was designed and added in the late 1800s. It was purchased by the Town of Cherbourg in 1935. It is still in a state of restoration. The gardens are open seven days a week, with some of the most beautiful flowers we've seen in Cherbourg.

Day Seven: Avignon

2007-07-07T02:54:00.000-07:00

On day seven of our trip, we took a break from all the driving and big-scale sight-seeing and just walked around the city of Avignon and relaxed. We had seen so many "fortified cities" that week, but this was the first one that actually looked like a medieval castle. The outer walls remind me of the sandcastles we build on the beach, or, like a Waffle King sign...

We saw the Palais des Papes, or the Palace of the Popes. It was begun in 1316 by one pope and construction continued through other popes until 1370. We also saw the Notre Dame des Doms, (large cathedral with a gilded statue of Mary on top), built in the 12th century, and the Pont d'Avignon.

After a day of relaxing and a nice dinner, Daniel and I hurried back into the walls of the city to se the theatre festival. Two nights earlier in Avignon, as we walked through the city to find a place to eat dinner, we kept noticing all these flyers and posters, covering every inch of fences, posts and public walls. We learned from our nice waiter that the famous Avignon theatre festival was starting that very night. It is an annual summer event (started in 1947) that runs through July, and about 100,000 people attend! So, Saturday night we parked outside the city walls and rushed into the city to try to see at least one play. The streets were packed with people, street vendors, amateur performers, magicians, clowns, lights, excitement, people going to shows or just enjoying the shows on the streets... It was truly an environment of excitement, dance, music, comedy, and fun. We enjoyed the last show of the night and then walked around the city, enjoying the ambiance. There was actually a night time outdoor market just outside of the city walls, by the ferris wheel, that we visited as well.

Day Six, Continued

2007-07-06T14:55:00.000-07:00

Continuing on our road trip south of Avignon.. we came upon Les Baux de Provence, purported to be one of the most beautiful villages in France. We listened to the advice of Rick Steeves and drove up to the highest point of parking possible before ascending the "citadel on a rocky spur." There's a castle at the top, and nice places to walk through on the way up. The views from above were very pretty. We walked a long way but did not linger long in this village on the rock.

By the time we hit Arles on this the warmest day yet, I think we were all somewhat tired from our days of travel, walking, and exploration. We hit a few market stores, peeked in the big Roman amphitheatre, walked through a couple of photography exhibits, visited the boutique of the Van Gogh museum (this was yet another town he painted in, site of the unfortunate ear-severing incident), lingered by a fountain to enjoy the view of the Cathedral de St. Trophime (pictured below), and walked along the river. I called my parents in Georgia from one of the shops and couldn't even remember the name city we were in; we had visited so many cities (especially that started with "A"). But there were some pretty places to see, and we have nice, though brief, memories of Arles. It is, after all, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Our final destination of the day was the Pont du Gard (yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site--we can't stay away!) I learned later it was one of France's top five tourist attractions. It is believed to have been constructed in the middle of the first century AD, to carry water (5 million gallons each day) across the water valley. It is part of a 31 mile aqueduct, constructed entirely without the use of mortar (instead, the stones are held together with iron clamps). I tell you what, those Romans were pretty smart!! We enjoyed the sunset over the Pont and then headed back to Avignon for dinner and a welcome night's rest.

Day Six: South of Avignon

2007-07-06T08:14:00.000-07:00

After checking into our hotel late the night before in Avignon, we continued our roadtrip south of Avignon. We were delighted to find ourselves surrounded by countryside dotted with beautiful sunflower fields. We couldn't help but stop and play in those too.

We stopped in St. Remy-de-Provence for lunch, an artsy town for painters, writers, musicians, etc. We walked around to explore the architecture and an old cathedral (empty, dark, and cold, but very pretty). Van Gogh stayed in St. Remy for a time (there is a mental isylum just south of town) and painted many famous paintings around the area. There is a trail here that you can walk with 21 signposts noting places where he painted. The most recognizable painting that came out of St. Remy is "Starry night." I'm sure we all remember the Don McLean song about Vincent and his struggles revealed in his paintings...

Starry, starry night

Paint your palette blue and grey

Look out on a summer's day

With eyes that know the darkness in my soul

Shadows on the hills

Sketch the trees and the daffodils

Catch the breeze and the winter chills
In colors on the snowy linen land...

Day Five continued: La Route de la Lavande

2007-07-05T06:43:00.000-07:00

One of our favorite places on this trip was the Provencal lavender fields. On this trip we had already spent time touring the museum factories and seeing lavendar products in all of the markets and stores, plants scattered throughout the villages and cities of Provence. The presence of lavender and its essences are strong in this part of France. We were anxious to see the plants in their natural form, covering the landscape of the Alpes de Haute Provence. We followed a map and kept our eyes peeled all over the countryside for these beautiful fields.. We were beginning to be discouraged when we didn't find them, until late in the day we finally hit the right area (perhaps where it was yet to be harvested). It was so beautiful!

When you step into the field you find yourself quickly aware that you are surrounded not only by the sights and smells of lavendar, but also the sound of bees! All around, a not-so-faint buzzing sound...(see bee in picture? above right). Thankfully, the bees ignored us as we played in the lavender. On this route we drove through some different towns named Manosque, Volx, Sigonce, Cruis, Ongles, Simiane-la-Rotonde, and finally to Apt where we enjoyed a delicious meal at a restaurant named Le Chat Qui Peche, or, The Fishing Cat.

Day Five, Aix-en-Provence

2007-07-05T03:33:00.000-07:00

We arrived late in Aix-en-Provence, checked into our hotel, and quickly headed back out to get some dinner. We found there was a lot of new construction, and in the dark the streets were hard to follow. We had some adventures getting there (including a brush with the police), but we finally settled down to a delicious Italian dinner (lasagna, pizza, Nicois salad) in the heart of Old Town.

We woke up the next morning to another beautiful day. After breakfast we strolled down the Cours Mirabeau, a very wide avenue lined with double rows of plane trees and famous fountains every few hundred feet. We shopped the expansive market that seemed to fill the whole town, talked with some locals, and took pictures of the fountains.

We said goodbye to Aix-en-Provence to head north toward the "route de la lavande," anxious to see some fields of lavender. As we headed north we stopped at a olive oil mill and experienced our first olive oil tasting (a carefully chosen bottle now seasons our food at home). We drove by acres of olive tree groves, vineyards, and fruit tree groves, finally stopping at one roadside farmer's stand in the middle of a grove for the freshest, juiciest, plumpest white peaches, nectarines, and apricots we've ever had (almost all eaten on the spot). Off the beaten path we found an ancient Roman bridge, old abbey, and a beautiful old chateau. We hit both the chateau and the L'Occitane factory at the wrong time for touring, but... c'est la vie. The lavendar fields made up for that.

Day Four Continued, Saint Tropez

2007-07-04T09:14:00.000-07:00

Saint-Tropez... big harbor, lots of yachts, lots of money, lots of shops, lots of waterside cafes for lots of people-watching. We walked around the water and found some American yachts with flags flying, reminding us that it was the 4th of July. I most especially liked the colors on the buildings facing the harbor. Daniel especially liked the ice cream.

....

"The nickname St. Trop ("trop" meaning "too much" in French) is given to Saint Tropez because it is said that people in St. Tropez often indulge in excess, getting too tanned, or too thin; but probably more because people would rather use little words to speak faster" (Wikipedia.com).

Day Four, French coast roadtrip

2007-07-04T08:06:00.000-07:00

We checked out of our hotel in Nice in the morning and hopped in the car to explore the southern coast, west of Nice. Our final destination was Aix-en-Provence, but we didn't have a specific itinerary in between the two cities, just to explore the coastal towns and visit St. Tropez. We drove through Cannes again, but this time on a bypass and through a traffic jam, realizing what a normal, big, not-so-pretty city it is. Then we hit the beautiful towns of Antibes, Theoule-sur-Mer (on the Golfe de la Napoule, everyone's favorite quiet cove of all), Frejus, Saint-Raphael, and Sainte-Maxim.

We hit dozens of little villages on the way that were too small and numerous to remember the names, but all beautiful and bustling with people. It was great fun to have the freedom to spontaneously decide which direction to go, which sign to follow, which panoramic view or other points of interest to stop for... I navigated our trip and announced place names, Daniel drove fast (zooming around on the narrow coastal roads), and Allen and Sandra held on for dear life. Not too far out of Cannes we stopped at a point of interest (not sure what it was, we just followed a little sign). We parked in what we were afraid might be someone's yard, took a path to the water, and found a spot with some Roman ruins. Hundreds of years ago, they had built a series of gatesand pools in the water to hold fresh fish (below, right)!

We just kept stopping the car to get out and enjoy the views of the water, the coast, the mountains, the villages, the scenery.. We all agreed that one could spend months here and not see everything. We would love to visit again, and spend some more time in this lovely area.

Day Three Continued, Cannes

2007-07-03T07:54:00.000-07:00

On our way back to Nice from Grasse, we stopped in Cannes for dinner. The area near the water is pretty, thriving and very ritzy. We ate at an outdoor cafe which served some very traditional, very delicious Provencal food. We were entertained by the waiter (very much a jokester), a family beside us (each person ordered a pizza and all ate about one slice each, making faces before they paid and left), and the constant flow of street vendors and performers, all trying new and interesting ways to get a quick buck, and all who somehow melted away the minute a police car drove by.

We couldn't leave Cannes without going by the "Palais des Festivals et des Congrès" where the famous film festival takes place each year. We ran into Keanu Reeves (the Matrix) and some other interesting people on the red carpet. Unfortunately, they weren't giving out autographs.

Day Three, Nice and Grasse

2007-07-03T05:27:00.000-07:00

We woke up back in Nice to another beautiful day, and another outdoor market experience. The more markets in southern France that we visited, the more we grew to love them. Day three's market experience was one of mostly flowers and produce. The colors, sights, and sounds of the market are hard to capture in a blog--you have to experience it in person. We bought some lavendar, olives, dried fruit, and a few useful souvenirs for the kitchen.

After exploring the market and a quick visit to the beach in Nice, we hopped back in the car for a roadtrip to Grasse, the perfume capital of the world. There we toured the Mollinard perfumerie, watched a group of individual sculptists at work in a symposium (amazing to see them in action), and then explored the town on foot. It was a bit like Nice but much smaller, quieter, and less busy.

We walked through the old part of Nice where a narrow street comes out onto the Place du Petit Puy where stands the 10-11th-century Notre Dame du Puy cathedral (rebuilt in the 17th c.) and its huge 18th century clock tower. (See pictures below). Just outside is an interesting memorial to those of Grasse who have died in war. The names are actually engraved on the columns.

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Day Two Continued, Monaco

2007-07-02T23:44:00.000-07:00

It's hard to believe that we did so much in one day, but it just keeps going: We continued down the Moyenne-Corniche from Èze, out of France and to another country: Monaco. We spent most of our time in Monte Carlo, strolling the beautiful gardens, stepping into the infamous Casino (Daniel especially liked the cars parked outside), enjoying a break (a little vin blanc et accompaniments) and some people-watching at a Cafe de Paris, window-shopping the ultra-expensive boutiques, and exploring the harbor and gawking at the yachts. (Yes, that's a helicopter on the back of the biggest yacht, below).

With Daniel's gracious French and convincing manner, we somehow procured a reservation at a packed outdoor restaurant overlooking the harbor. As the sun went down, the lights of the city blinked on, and a bright full moon rose over the water, we savored the end of a long and adventure-filled day.

Day Two Continued, Èze

2007-07-02T23:23:00.000-07:00

To the east of Nice there are three beautiful drives you can take along the coast that link the city to Ville-Franche-sur-Mer and Monaco. They are named the Basse-Corniche, the Moyenne-Corniche, and the Grand-Corniche; the lower, middle, and high roads respectively. We took the middle road and enjoyed some of the most spectacular views of our trip. It was hard not to stop the car every two minutes, especially to see Ville-Franche-sur-Mer (pictured left)!

Our first actual destination was the Fragonard perfumery in Èze. We stepped out of the car and into a bath of delicious smells, and that was just the parking lot! We took the tour, learned all about the making of perfumes, and came out of the boutique at the end with overworked nasal passages. We drove around Èze a little while before parking and hiking up (and up and up) the narrow winding streets to Èze-le-Village.

Eze-le-Village is a little medieval village perched on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. As we ascended we were impressed by the increasingly beautiful views, amused by the boutique shop, and awed by the art and architecture. Little poetic statues dotted the paths of the Jardin Exotique. We finally reached the top and played around the remains of an ancient castle fortress (destroyed by Louis the 14th's army in 1707).

Little trivia for you music lovers: Bono and the lead guitarist of U2 own a villa in Eze, and have filmed two music videos in Èze.

Nice Day Two

2007-07-02T09:03:00.000-07:00

We started our second day in Nice with a morning walk to a patisserie for breakfast. The sunshine was just beginning to hit the tops of the colorful buildings and little stores and markets were beginning to open their doors. From the cobblestone streets of Old Town to the narrow alleys and magnificent building facades to the fountains and gardens... Everywhere we looked was another photo opportunity!

Shortly after breakfast we wandered through a morning antique market and some shops, then sat by the beach and tried to take time to just breathe in all of the sights and sounds of Nice.

Nice at Night

2007-07-01T14:38:00.000-07:00

After our sunset walk, we joined the throngs of people sitting in streetside cafes under the stars for a delicious Greek/Italian dinner. There is no lack of street performers playing music and doing stunts for the crowds in Nice, so we had dinner entertainment! Later we enjoyed a stroll around Old Town, looking in store windows and taking in the illuminated buildings and city. We explored a confectionary shop (open quite late, especially for France), savored gelattis at Place Rosetti, and stood by the fountain in the center of the plaza to get a good look at the Cathedrale Ste Reparate.

And back to the Promenade des Anglais... Daniel loves those palm trees!

Nice, Day One

2007-07-01T08:46:00.000-07:00

We left Cherbourg for Paris by train early Sunday morning, and were on the plane by early afternoon. It was cool and wet in Paris, making the arrival in warm and sunny Nice all the better! It was like stepping into a tropical paradise, after many days of cool winds and grey skies in Normandy. We checked into our hotel and decided right away to take an evening walk and enjoy the city. What a beautiful place!

-- Nice, on the southern coast of France, reminds me of her neighbor Italy in its architecture and warm Mediterranean colors. On our walk we made sure to go down the "Promenade des Anglais" and stop by the beach (cold water!). This was one of Daniel's favorite places to go when he spent four months here during college, on vacation... I mean, studying French. :) We noticed that, just like our beach in Vauville, the tide falling back and sweeping through the pebbles sounds like applause. The outdoor cafes were packed with people, enjoying the beautiful warm evening.

Harpers Visit France!

2007-06-28T07:43:00.000-07:00

We were very happy that Daniel's parents, Allen and Sandra, arrived safely in Cherbourg after a long trip involving cars, planes, subways, and trains. It was an unusually beautiful day in Cherbourg, so we visited the harbor before taking them home to Vauville, and dinner from the grill. The next day was cloudy and rainy, so we visited the La Cité de la Mer (a large maritime museum downtown) where we saw a canon from the C.S.S. Alabama, a confederate vessel sunk off the coast of Cherbourg during the American civil war! (It's a small world after all). Edouard Manet painted the war scene (see below), and I found it on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CSS_Alabama. We also enjoyed a roadtrip around the Cap La Hague and exploring the little town of Goury and its lighthouse.

Brussels, Belgium

2007-06-23T03:32:00.000-07:00

On a weekend trip to visit some church members near Liege, Daniel and I decided to spend the night in Brussels, Belgium. Daniel had been there before and had always wanted to show me this beautiful city. Belgium is only about six hours away, so we left early Saturday morning and packed a picnic lunch. We enjoyed services, a huge meal, and much talking with a group near Huy, Belgium. That evening we drove over to Brussels. On the way we passed a nuclear power plant that was extremely close to the road. We reached Brussels in good time, but it was definitely a challenge to find the hotel, even with a map. The street signs are posted on the buildings (if they are even there), the city is dimly lit, the road system chaotic, and the names of the streets were in Flemish which was different than the names we had on our map on my laptop. We finally found the hotel, changed, and went for a long walk around the city. There are huge, ancient, beautiful buildings and places of interest all around which were lit and in full glory that evening. It was a clear and cool night so we enjoyed the walk, though we encountered much litter and bad smells on the streets.

Our favorite spot, and where we spent the most time, was the central market square, known by “Grand-Place” and “de grote Markt” depending on which language you are speaking. I think it is the most beautiful square I’ve seen so far in Europe. During the Middle Ages it was a marketplace surrounded by small wooden houses, and later replaced in the 14th century as rich and powerful families built stone mansions. The square turned into the city’s political center where meetings and executions took place and where dukes/kings/emperors were received. The town hall was completed in 1455. THEN the square was destroyed by bombs in 1695 (by order of Louis XIV as a reprisal of a lost battle in Namur, South Belgium). So they had to rebuild all the stone houses (most are elaborately decorated medieval guild houses) and the town hall entirely reconstructed.

Across the square from the town hall is the King’s House (“La maison du roi” in French, “Het Broodhuis” in Dutch). In the 13th century this was the site of an old wooden building where bakers sold their bread, later replaced by a stone building, later used for administrative purposes, rebuilt in Gothic style in 1515, later damaged in bombings of 1695, restored, and ultimately restored to the way it is now, in 1860. It is now the site of the City Museum of Brussels. Below left: Saint Gudula Cathedral.

There is a curiously famous statue that we also visited, named the Mannekin Pis. It is a surprisingly small fountain statue, of a little boy tinkling. The official origin is traced back to 1619, but records indicate that it was there a lot earlier. Over the centuries the little statue has been hidden to protect him from bombs of invading armies, stolen several times, and though he was au-natural when we saw him, he is often dressed, and has over 600 costumes (kept at the City Museum). I found a website that shows some of the costumes: http://www.ilotsacre.be/images/virtualvisit/manneken_pis.htm. It is quite funny. We found Brussels to be both an interesting and entertaining city.

Goury

2007-06-10T12:07:00.000-07:00

A short drive (or a long hike) from our house in Vauville is a beautiful little place called Goury. It is on the tip of the peninsula of La Hague. I mentioned it in a previous post, but that was in winter and it is even more beautiful now. One day we took a long hike that ended at Goury. Another day, as we drove back home from Belgium, saw a beautiful sunset from Cherbourg and we raced out to the point to catch it as it slipped into the sea. Below, a collection from this stunning area.

Back Home

2007-05-27T06:08:00.000-07:00

After our big trip with the O’Malley’s, we settled down for a couple of weeks and only went as far as England. We took the ferry across the Channel and enjoyed Pentecost weekend with friends in London. The young adults there are a very international group! Here (below) at this Indian restaurant, is represented England, Australia, South Africa, New Zealand, Germany, Nigeria, and the U.S. On the left you see the fast boat we took from Cherbourg to Portsmouth. I didn’t take a lot of pictures in the UK, because it was cloudy and rainy the whole time. It felt strange speaking English again (to people around us) after so much French and Spanish!
Back home, it was really warming up. The wind stopped and the sun came out and we enjoyed some beautiful weather for Vauville. Good weather for hiking, and for our first BBQ! Bill Johnson from Asheville, NC happened to be in Europe and came by to see us. We enjoyed his company for a weekend. He was determined to get some pictures of the sheep for his kids back home! Yes, that’s a Mercedes he’s standing on to get that shot…We took a 5.5 km walk out to Goury (tip of our peninsula, with a lighthouse and rescue station) followed by wading in the Channel, and enjoyed a sunset dinner on the Nez Jobourg.

Madrid II Old and New

2007-05-19T02:16:00.000-07:00

We visited the Temple of Debod on one of our bus stops. It is a 4th century B.C. Egyptian temple that was donated to Spain in 1968. It was moved from the banks of the Nile just before the area where it was built was flooded by the Aswan High Dam. We didn't actually get to see the inside because it was, of course, closed when we arrived. I chose this picture (courtesy of Shari) because it captures the old and the new of Madrid. It is a thriving, busy modern city but still has standing churches and buildings dating back to the 15th century, and excavations have revealed that people have occupied the area far before that. Europe is different from the States in this way--we are such a young country. Our oldest buildings in America are like new construction in comparison to here!

On this trip we discovered why Madrid is aptly named "the city that never sleeps." The restaurants started getting busy around eleven p.m. or later, and people were out (in the streets, clubs, restaurants, etc) all night. After all that they then sleep in late, eat breakfast, work a little, lunch and then siesta when the city shuts down at mid-day, then work a little more before doing it all over again (so we were told).

Below you see me in La Puerta del Sol by a statue of the symbol of Madrid: El Oso y El Madrono (the bear and the Madrona tree). On this trip we enjoyed eating in the many Plazas (below, eating tapas in the beautiful Plaza Mayor at sunset), strolling the Botanical Gardens, exploring the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, and Shari and Pat went to the Prado. There are museums and exhibitions galore, too many to see in one short trip. We only wish we hadn't missed the Royal Palace three times...

Madrid I

2007-05-18T07:34:00.000-07:00

On Thursday morning we took a train from Toledo to Madrid. As we rode through the streets of the city, I was impressed with the size and ornate facades of the buildings. Everything is so big, and so old! We found our hotel in the middle of the city, on a very busy intersection near the Plaza Del Sol. The evening view from our hotel window gives an idea of the grandeur of it all.

After checking in and getting settled, we took a walk to the Plaza de Sol and then found a sidewalk café recommended by Rick Steves (our constant travel companion). We enjoyed sangrias and vegetarian paella as we sat in the sunshine. Somehow we ended up at the Ben & Jerry's across the street for dessert (it was packed!) When we came outside, we were met by a group of street musicians singing/playing beautiful Spanish songs. They reminded me of the Gypsy Kings. After lunch we walked to El Palacio Real (the Royal Palace, official residence of the king of Spain), the first time of many in which we found it closed. At least it was a beautiful walk!

...But you can only walk for so long, so we hopped on the double-decker city bus and sat on top for a tour of the city. It is huge, and incredibly busy. I don't know the names of all the buildings I took pictures of, but at least it gives you a quick photo tour of some of the famous areas of Madrid.

Toledo III

2007-05-17T21:49:00.000-07:00

Alot of the museums/monuments were closed or under construction while we were there. After the cathedral and a nice lunch we enjoyed the Museum of Santa Cruz (Pat was looking for El Greco paintings). It was a challenge to follow the map through the maze of streets, so after a while of trying to find open attractions, we just relaxed and walked around, soaking up the city, stepping in random large churches, trying local pastries (marzipan), pausing for pictures down alleyways, taking pictures with statues, and eating tapas and drinking Sangria in the open square while contemplating a nearby political rally/protest. Good times!

Behind Shari and I you can see the remnants of an ancient bridge over the T agus river.

Here, you can see local grafitti. Pat, the camera loves you!

"Holy Toledo!"

2007-05-17T05:18:00.000-07:00

Toledo was once the capital of Spain, and as such was also the religious center. We visited the Catedral de Toledo (left) on our first morning here. The original cathedral was destroyed in the 13th century and this Gothic cathedral was buil on its foundations. We marveled at the immense paintings, interesting religious and pagan art and sculptures, fresco, and incredible architecture. It felt more like a museum than a place of worship.

Toledo I

2007-05-16T20:06:00.000-07:00

Ahh.. Toledo! After a month of grey skies, wind, and cool temperatures in Normandy, we were happy to step off the airplane in Spain to sunshine and warmth! We took a taxi southwest of Madrid to the beautiful medieval walled city of Toledo, another UNESCO World Heritage site. The entire place is one big historical monument.

As soon as we got to our hotel, we changed into summer clothes and went to the roof to enjoy a view of the mountaintop city. No wind!!

Because Christians, Arabs and Jews lived together here for centuries, Toledo is also known as the "city of the three cultures." Everywhere, we saw churches, palaces, fortresses, mosques and synagogues.

The streets are very narrow and the old buildings tall--it was neat to see the city at different times of the day as the sunlight hit the streets at different angles and bathed the stucco walls and tiled roofs in warm light.

Le Mont Saint Michel

2007-05-14T07:01:00.000-07:00

On Monday we visited Mont Saint Michel, a rocky tidal island on the border between Normandy and Brittany. It holds the well-preserved breath-taking Norman Benedictine Abbey of St Michel at the peak, which is surrounded by a maze of winding streets and elaborate architecture of a medieval town. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Its known history begins in 709 when Aubert, Bishop of Avranches built and consecrated a small church on the mount. A community of Benedictine monks settled here in 966, and built the pre-Romanesque church. Over the centuries more buildings and levels were added by different groups of people. Military constructions were eventually built to protect against siege during the 100 Years War (which held up against a 30+ year siege).

The Mont became a great spiritual and intellectual center, an important point of pilgrimage for medieval people, who came here by roads called "paths to paradise," hoping for assurance of eternity. The abbey was turned into a prison during the French Revolution. Since 2001 friars and sisters returned to "ensure a spiritual presence" to the area. All through this long history the medieval town that surrounds the abbey was developing as well. The town is very pretty but also very touristy. It is a real challenge to choose which pictures to post--we snapped photographs throughout the day, and everywhere we turned was another beautiful view!

Walk in Vauville

2007-05-13T17:58:00.000-07:00

After a long drive from the airport and Omaha beach, we relaxed with aperitifs, a delicious Normandy dinner, and a walk through our little stone village of Vauville. We are in the process of gathering information about the long history of this place. At this point we do know that it used to be a much bigger village, and that it has been attacked many times because of its strategic location on the coast and near the Channel islands. The picture above is of the corner of the old church and graveyard, with the Chateau Vauville in the background. Below you can see the foot bridges that lead from the road to the houses over little streams of water. It is so pretty in the spring!

Freedom Is Not Free

2007-05-13T08:34:00.000-07:00

I dream of giving birth to a child who will ask, "Mother, what was war?" ~Eve Merriam

Early this morning we drove from Rouen to Paris to pick up Shari and Patrick from the Orly airport. It was wonderful to see them, and they were surprisingly chipper and alert after a long flight from Denver, Colorado. On our way back to Cherbourg we stopped by the American cemetery at Omaha beach. It was on this beach that American casualties were the highest on D-Day. It is the largest American WWII cemetery.

9,387 fathers and brothers (thirty-three pairs buried side by side) and four women are buried here. It is a very sober but peaceful place, where the gravity of war hits home. This bronze statue is the center of the Memorial: "The Sprit of American Youth Rising From The Waves."

On June 6th, the 63rd anniversary of D-Day, Daniel received some moving e-mails from people that work at his site. They expressed their appreciation for what American (and other) servicemen did that day, and showed that they have not forgotten the devastating but important sacrifices of WWII.

In Flanders fields the poppies grow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place, and in the sky,
The larks, still bravely singing, fly,
Scarce heard amid the guns below.
~John McCrae

Rouen

2007-05-11T09:47:00.000-07:00

Two weeks after I arrived, we drove to Paris on a Friday morning for my medical visit, part of the requirements for living in France. We were in a hurry as we left that morning, so we didn’t have time to fix and eat breakfast. That reminded me of another time when we were in a hurry, when we decided to grab a pastry in town on our way out. We went to the local patisserie in nearby Beaumont-Hague, where Daniel got his favorite “pan chocolate” and I got a pastry with some raisins. Then we realized we needed something to drink, and since it was a cold morning we thought a coffee would be nice. We were still in a hurry, and so we stopped in a nearby café. Daniel knew better, but thought it would be worth a shot to see if we could get a coffee “to go.” He asked in perfect French, but the woman at the counter looked at him like he was crazy. She asked someone else, but neither of them could begin to understand why we would want to take their porcelain cups with us. They didn’t get the concept, even after Daniel explained that it would need to be a disposable cup. I don’t think the French in general can understand why anyone wouldn’t have at least the time to sit down and have a cup of coffee. I have yet to see anyone eating or drinking in their car here… That is just unfathomable.

After my medical visit in Bagnolet, we drove to Rouen, a beautiful medieval city, the historical capital of Normandy, most known for its cathedral and for being the sight of Joan of Arc's trial and execution by burning at the stake. We spent the evening in the old part of the city, enjoying the beautiful cathedral (Notre Dame, painted multiple times by Monet), old architecture in the center of town, boutique stores, and a restaurant that seemed to attract English people. Afterwards, we drove outside of Rouen to the home of a nice family named the Boyers, for the rest of the weekend, where Daniel learned to play the accordion. :)

Around the house

2007-05-08T04:14:00.000-07:00

Some of our viewers have requested to see our house. It seems like it is often changing, as we put it all together little by little. We sold so much when we left Augusta, and then there was so little here in the house when we got here (i.e. appliances, light fixtures, kitchen cabinets), that it still is a work in progress. So here are a few glimpses of life as we settle in... the view out of our kitchen window, showing off my lemon tree after a trip to JardiLand (rough translation: GardenLand), and Daniel's sheer joy in getting another grill.

Walk on the Beach

2007-05-06T08:10:00.000-07:00

While we enjoy living on waterfront property (something that is much harder to come by in the United States), the weather does not allow for your sunny Florida coast walk on the beach in May. It will warm up soon, but on this day it was chilly, foggy, and very, very windy.

The beach, just a short walk from our doorstep, consists of a few yards of pretty smooth pebbles leading to a wide expanse of sand, especially at low tide. It is packed and very easy to walk on. In this picture you can see Le Fort Vauville behind me, built during the Seven Year War (1756-1763). You can see an even better picture of the structure, and a nearby gun turret used during the war, on Google Earth.

Between the beach and the fields behind the houses of Vauville, there is a picturesque hiking trail from which you can see the town, the fields, the farm animals, and the beach, all from the same spot. The Cap La Hague is known for its hiking trails and beautiful views.

The Norman cows (typified by their distinctive patches of color over their eyes) are curious types, but not extremely friendly (yet). Daniel enjoys playing with both the cows and the sea life on the beach. :)

Vauville Home

2007-05-03T04:44:00.000-07:00

After just a few days, Vauville is already beginning to feel like home. We love to catch the sunset over the Channel from the third floor terrace. You can see from the picture that a series of fields separate the town of Vauville from the water. They are separated by low stone walls. Cows, horses, and sheep happily graze these fields and entertain us with their daily habits.

Here we are enjoying the view of the countryside at sunset before heading out for a Caribbean dinner and salsa dancing at the Tam-Tam Cafe in downtown Cherbourg.

Sainte-Mere-Eglise

2007-05-01T12:10:00.000-07:00

On our way back home from Utah Beach, we stopped at the little town of Sainte-Mere-Eglise. This town was one of the first to be liberated in the invasion of D-Day. A brief story from wikipedia.com:

“The early landings, at about 0140 directly on the town, resulted in heavy casualties for the paratroopers. Some buildings in town were on fire that night, and they illuminated the sky, making easy targets of the descending men. Some were sucked into the fire. Many hanging from trees and utility poles were shot before they could cut loose. The German defenders were alerted.

A famous incident involved paratrooper John Steele, whose parachute caught on the spire of the town church, and could only observe the fighting going on below. He was later captured by a German soldier. The incident was portrayed in the movie The Longest Day. Later that morning, about 0500, a force led by Lt. Colonel Edward C. Krause of the 505th PIR took the town with little resistance. Apparently the German garrison was confused and had retired for the rest of the night. However, heavy German counterattacks began later in the day and into the next. The lightly-armed troopers held the town, until reinforced by tanks from nearby Utah Beach in the afternoon of June 7.”
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sainte-M%C3%A8re-%C3%89glise

Utah Beach Landing Museum

2007-05-01T12:05:00.000-07:00

After walking around town we went to the Utah Beach Landing Museum, which is set up at the site of the U.S. landing of June 6th. There we saw a scale model of the German defenses, amphibious vehicles, weapons, photographs, maps, and WW2 American and German artifacts and read the stories of what happened that on this spot on that critical day. We learned that the outcome at Utah beach was significantly different from that of Omaha beach, because here there were fewer German fortifications, more effective air raids and air support before the invasion, better landings of tanks, and the 101st and 82nd Airborne Divisions of paratroopers had landed 5 hours prior to the beach landings, which confused and helped clear out the German defenses. This resulted in much heavier airborne casualties than those on the landing beach.

It was at Utah Beach that American divisions landed and pushed inland to meet up with US airborne forces around St. Mere Eglise. We read a plaque that explained that between D-Day and November 1st of 1944 836,000 men and 220,000 vehicles came ashore here.

A plaque from the society Le Souvenir Francais reads:
to the memory of the valiant soldiers of the United States
fallen for the liberation of France
June 6 1944

June 6, 1944

2007-05-01T12:00:00.000-07:00

On May 1st we drove less than an hour from Vauville to the charming town of Sainte-Marie-du-Mont. A woman that works at Daniel’s site, Christine Bertot, had invited us over to see the town and nearby museum at Utah Beach. Since neither of us had met her we were particularly struck by her generosity of taking a day to introduce us to the special area that is rich in history of D-Day.

In the center of the town square is a towering church (11th century), which we learned changed hands multiple times over the course of the night of June 6th.

All around the square are little signs that tell the personal stories in amazing detail of what happened the night the town was liberated from the Germans.

With the memorials and museums, you begin to realize that what happened 60+ years ago seems forever carved into the identity of the place and the people.It was like stepping back in time, because there is so much that is preserved and the town looks much the same as it did many years ago.

Oh Happy Day!

2007-04-29T12:48:00.000-07:00

After four long months apart, with only the telephone line, internet e-mail, and webcam sessions to stay in touch, we finally reunited! Daniel picked me up at the airport on Sunday April 29th in Paris. When I first saw him, he was waiting behind the glass wall with a sign that said “Harper”.

Needless to say, we were and still are very thankful to be together again! Thanks to everyone for their support, care, and prayers for both of us during our time apart. After a nice train and car ride back home, Daniel fixed a delicious traditional Normandy meal for me.

Cap La Hague

2007-01-29T20:18:00.000-08:00

The western side of the Cap is to me even more beautiful, with the cliffs and beaches and green (even in the dead of winter) countryside. The gates shown here are famous in the way they are constructed, apparently only found in Normandy. Along the road overlooking the water of La Manche, I stopped to take some pictures (Nez de Jobourg is the outcropping shown here) and happened upon a man exercising his horse on the beach. The island you can see in the background of this picture is probably Alderney.

Cindy's roadtrip

2007-01-29T19:46:00.000-08:00

During my visit in December, I took off in the car one day while Daniel was at work to check out the area that we will soon call home. On the furthest edge, at the tip of the peninsula named La Hague, there is a nice little village and lighthouse of Goury. Aparently these waters hold some of the most dangerous currents in the world. There is now a rescue station there. There are beautiful little old stone villages (we moved into one) all over this area, each with their own name and history. Even on a cold, windy, cloudy day it was easy to appreciate the beauty of the area.

Maison de Vauville

2007-01-26T18:09:00.000-08:00

We were originally scheduled to see this house first thing in the morning of our first day of house hunting. We talked about it, and without looking at it, we decided we didn't want to live outside the city. For no apparent reason (other than, just for fun?) we later rescheduled to see it after all, and quickly became enamored with the town and the house itself. When we first saw it, it was right at sundown. We stood on the third level terrace and saw a panoramic view of the remnants of the sunset over the English Channel, as off to the side the lights of the coastal village were just beginning to flicker on.. We thought to ourselves, when would we ever get the chance to live in a place like this, again? A little stone house in an old Norman village? Why not?

Apartment in Cherbourg

2007-01-22T18:28:00.000-08:00

We ended up at this apartment in the middle of a long day of apartment hunting. It is a beautiful, ancient building that has been renovated for apartment living, in the middle of the city. The entire third floor is a spacious apartment with nice views, lots of light, tall ceilings, a lot of what we wanted in a place to live. We would have signed on it that day, but it was not to be available until at least March. So we kept looking. We are happy with what we did end up finding, which was a far cry from any apartment we could find in any city. But, we still can look back and wonder what it would have been like to live in a museum!

Maison d'hotes : Les Fontaines

2007-01-20T14:51:00.000-08:00

Daniel describes the kitchen/common eating area in two words: "Pottery Barn." I especially enjoyed the English tea with delicious local cream of Normandy. Actually, I really especially enjoyed eating breakfast with my sweetie again, after being apart for three long weeks. :)

Maison d'hotes : Les Fontaines

2007-01-20T14:40:00.000-08:00

Here you see the "company housing" where Daniel has been staying since the end of November. It is a beautiful old Norman farmhouse that has been refurbished. They added on rooms and so it is a very nice place to stay temporarily! I think his favorite thing about this place is the wonderful food that they serve. The five course meals at night are especially delicious. I think his second favorite thing about this place is that it is less than ten minutes from work!

Georgetown - to the French Embassy

2006-11-27T06:25:00.000-08:00

Talk about last minute... As I write this blog update, I am flying from D.C. to Columbia, SC. In two days, I leave for France, and I am wrapping up a last-minute trip to the French Embassy to get my work visa. Even though there was a huge mix-up, I finally have what I need to begin my new job in France. It was a beautiful day as I took a long walk through Georgetown to the embassy. Though I started my journey in Augusta at 3AM this morning, I easily made it to my appointment at 10AM sharp. As I walked, I saw some of the sights of Georgetown. If you ever go to D.C. for vacation, you should stay in Georgetown. It is a very nice place, and many historical landmarks, especially the houses, are well preserved.

Thanksgiving Day at the Harpers'

2006-11-27T06:20:00.001-08:00

Ben and Jenn hosted for Thanksgiving Day this year. Avery, Grant, and Leeroy (their dog) welcomed us for a delicious meal and a wonderful time. Our day began with a visit to their church to prepare Thanksgiving meals-on-wheels for people in need. We then returned to the house to prepare the Harper Thanksgiving meal. Ben led a short devotion before the meal, and the family grouped around Cindy and me to ask a blessing on us as we start our adventure in France. We feel so loved by ALL our family, and we love them ALL.
Later, Uncle Tommy and James presented some wonderful letters written by all of us years ago to our now late Mama Harper. My grandparents were tremendous examples that we could never forget. It was a great joy to spend time as a family, remembering and honoring her and Papa.

Visit with the Parkers

2006-11-27T06:17:00.000-08:00

Christine and Lora said that they were determined to see me before I left for France. Cindy and I were determined to visit the Parker side of the family one more time before I left for France. So, we all got together in Talladega at Mama's and Papa's house. When we arrived, the smell of Thanksgiving dinner filled the house. Mama must have been cooking all day. There was so much food! Over a delicious Thanksgiving dinner, we all had a chance to catch up on what's going on in our busy lives. We got to see Jackie, Tim, and Karen as well, but we missed seeing Lee, John, and Charlee.

Early Thanksgiving 2006

2006-11-20T15:44:00.000-08:00

Thanksgiving dinner is not reserved exclusively for Thanksgiving Day, at least not for our family. Cindy and I gathered with the rest of the Gore family this weekend for what we called "Early Thanksgiving" or in CatchPhrase lingo, "Two words! First word: not late but... Second word: the national holiday on which we send appreciation to God for His many blessings..."

Before the family arrived, Mr. Gore thought of how many grandchildren he has and added a sunroom (pictured) to his house.

Family activities for the weekend, besides eating, were CatchPhrase, walking at the park, throwing football, cutting a tree down, and watching Auburn beat Alabama in the Iron Bowl. War Eagle!

Farewell Fairhope

2006-11-16T22:58:00.000-08:00

A visit to Fairhope gave us the opportunity to be with Mom and Dad a few days during Cindy's fall break from teaching. It also allowed us to say goodbye to our friends Beverly, Ida, and the Bessies.

This trip, Cindy finally got to try Gambinos', my favorite Italian restaurant. It would have been easy to go straight there after the beach "photo shoot", but we didn't think the matching khaki look would go over very well in the restaurant.